Mark your steering wheel at 12 o’clock.
Place the vertical bar on the wheel, using the gauge (at a vertical angle)make sure the bar is at 90 degrees.
Turn the wheel you are checking inward 3/4 of a turn.
Then go ZERO the gauge and place on the bracket at a horizontal angle.
Once the gauge is placed and reflecting the zero, then turn the steering wheel back to 12 o’clock and then outward (opposite direction) 3/4 of a turn.
Read the measurement on the gauge at this point and this is your caster.
Repeat for the other wheel.
- Level the camber gauge. This is accomplished by placing the gauge in front of the tire and wheel you are checking. Turn the gauge on and the first reading you will see is the level of the surface you are working on. Example: If the reading on the gauge is 1.2 followed by the ^ arrow, this indicates the surface your working on is 1.2 degrees positive, the opposite would show on the gauge as 1.2 v or negative. Simply hit the zero button and the gauge will recalibrate and show on the screen as 0.00 and will hold this recalibrated number until the unit is turned off.
- Adjust for wheel height and size. The camber stick wheel contacts are adjustable for 15-16-17-18(or to your specs) inch wheels. The bottom contact is also adjustable for fine tuning to make sure you are working on a totally flat surface against the wheel. Adjust the arms on the stick to contact the surface you are working on, this eliminates having to hold the stick against the wheel and possibly getting inaccurate reading on the gauge. Use the arms as they are mounted or for hands free remove the arms and attach one to each side of the stick (extra bolt and washers supplied)
- Checking Camber. Place the gauge on the camber stick and record your camber. Example: 0.7 v indicates this wheel has less than 1 degree of negative camber. The only thing you really need to remember when using the gauge is ^ is positive, v is negative. In most cases you do not have to reset the gauge to level for each wheel but I would recommend until you have become totally familiar with the system to readjust for each wheel. As a side note, you can also place the gauge directly against the stick to check camber, the number that shows on the gauge will be plus or minus 90 degrees or vertical. If you use this method, taking our first example would be 89.3 v or 0.7 of negative camber.
- Adjust the height of each stick. Typically 6 inches is a great place to start your measurement. We made the cuts on the stands to measure 6” at a 45 degree angle. The extra bolts go on either side of the stands for stability.
- Place one stick on each side of you vehicle parallel with the tire. The stand should be to the outside of tire and wheel with the stick resting against the tire.
- Extend the tapes one in front of the tire and one behind the tire. Slide them under the vehicle until you each the opposite side. We have found working from right to left is easiest for us. Slide the clip of the tape measure into the slots of the left front and rear, return the right front and slide the extended tapes into the slots front and rear.
- Gently pull the tapes at the same time making sure the opposite side is seated against the tire.
- Read the tapes carefully. Typically you will have readings something like this:
Front measurement 75 ¼ – Rear measurement 75 1⁄8. This indicates that you have 1⁄8 of an inch of toe out. Easy way to remember this is if the front number is higher, you have toe out. If the rear number is higher then of course you have toe in.Remember, toe is actually measured from the center of the wheel, so double any number you have to get exact toe(example: 1⁄16 on the sticks equals 1⁄8 at the spindle. 1⁄32 of an inch can make a huge difference in the way your vehicle drives and responds so when you read the tapes, be as exact as possible. For the effects of toe in and toe out check the charts
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